Donor Kit: AMT/Ertl Peterbilt 359

1. Clean Resin Parts with white wall tire cleaner. Soak for 6hours to

overnight. This removes any mold release agents.

2. Wash parts in warm soapy water. Let dry.

3. Clean off any flash, fill any small holes or imperfections.

4. Test fit the hood to the AMT cab. This casting was designed for the

hood the be permanently affixed to the cab, and not tilt.

If you wish to make the hood tilt, you will need to cut the rear-lower

portion of the fenders off. These then get mounted to the cab.

5. Using the kit's Air Cleaner and Luberfiner, you will have to

relocate the Luberfiner higher on the side of the cab. The air cleaner

should be moved up slightly.

6. Primer the hood, grille, bumper, and cab with a good quality primer.

Paint with your choice of paints.

7. The chassis will require some modification.

Cut the front springs from the front hanger. You will have to fabricate

your own front spring hangers. Depending on which hood you have (short

or long), the springs will have to me moved back accordingly. The front

axle should be centered in the fenderwell. TEST FIT the springs, axle,

and cab/hood!!

8. The steering gear box must be moved to forward of the axle.

9. Left battery box and right fuel tank locations need to be moved

rearward. The length depends on which hood you have (long or short).

10. Peterbilt offered many combinations of battery and tool box

locations, as well as fuel tanks and sizes. Many of the set-back axle

trucks had small fuel tanks under the doors, and the battery box

rearward of the fuel tanks.

11. The grille and bumper may be sent out to be chromed, or covered

with chrome foil, or painted silver to simulate aluminum.

12. The kit headlights need to have the small tab that fits the slot on

the kit grille removed. This allows the headlights to mount to the

resin grille.

The Peterbilt 359 was available in many combinations through it's run

(1967-1987). The set-back versions were used for everything from dump

trucks, tractors and single axle tractors (289).

The 351 was available from 1955 through 1976. The 351 was a steel

butterfly hood, narrow radiator conventional.

A tilt hood version was available from 1965 through 1976, this was a

358.

Donor Kit: AMT T500 Peterbilt 359 California Hauler, or resin cast

"Little Window" cab.

1. Soak the resin parts in white wall tire cleaner fro 6 hours to

overnight to remove any mold release agents.

2. Wash the parts in warm soapy water.

Let dry.

3. Remove any flash or casting residue.

4. Fill any holes, or voids.

5. Sand smooth any exosed edges that appear rough or not smooth.

6. test fit the radiator to the hood, and fenders to the hood. Then

test fit the hood to the cab.

7. Cut the air cleaner extension panel off the right side of the cab.

8. Mount air cleaner on cab as per kit instructions.

9. This resin conversion kit was designed to have the hood closed, and

not functional. If you wish to make the hood functional, you will need

to aquire hinges for the center of the hood, and the sides. The fenders

will also be mounted differently, on brackets you will need to

fabricate.

10. Install the fenders to the hood. Make sure that the fenders are

level and true from front to rear. Remove the tiny pointed step at the

rear of the fender. This is not needed on the 351.

11. Prime all parts with a good quality primer.

Paint with paints of your choice.

12. The kit radiator will need to be modified. Only the fan shroud is

needed. This needs to be cut down to fit the resin radiator. Or, omit

this step if you intended to built the 351 with the hood closed.

13. Mount the kit headlights, or resin single headlights to the

radiator surround. NOTE: On some 351's, the headlight bracket was

upside down from the kit style. This is easy to accomplish, cut off the

headlight pod from the bracket. Turn the bracket upside down, install

the headlight pod so that it is "cradled" in the bracket, but still

mounted on the small tab.

14. All other assembly is done per the kit's instructions.

The Peterbilt 351 was available in many versions. Older models had the

radiator shutters showing. Option grille styles included a single bar

in the center, 2 center bars, 3 center bars, and 3 horizontal center

bars.

Standard bumper would be a straight bumper, with 2 step pockets. This

kit includes the optional tapered bumper.

The 351 was "the" Peterbilt before the 359 debuted in 1967. One of

Peterbilt's best sellers, the 351 can still be seen on the road today.

Donor Kit: AMT/Ertl 359 and Paystar Mixer/Dumper

This resin conversion is a basic butterfly hood, radiator surround,

bumper and fenders for a 1973-1976 Peterbilt 346 set-back axle truck.

Used as a mixer or dumper chassis.

Only ten of the real trucks were built.

1. Soak the resin parts in white wall tire cleaner 6 hours to overnight

to remove the mold release agents.

2. Wash the parts in warm soapy water.

Let dry.

3. Sand any rough edges or blemishes. Fill and holes or voids in the

resin.

4. Test fit the hood to the cab, and hood to radiator surround.

5. Remove the air cleaner extension panel from the cab.

6. The front axle should be located directly under the cab. 27 inches

from the back of the cab. Depending on what kit you decide to use for a

donor kit, the spring location will vary.

7. You will need to fabricate or obtain a front drive axle.

8. Discard the kit radiator.

9. You will need to fabricate fender-to-chassis mounts, also taller cab

mounts. The 346 cab sits approximately 6.5 inches higher off the frame

than a 359 does. The cab sits slightly above the fenders.

10. Prime parts with a quality primer. Paint with paints of choice.

11. The radiator surround can be sent out for chroming, or painted

silver to simulate aluminum.

12. The bumper is painted.

13. An angled panel the length of the hood needs to be fabricated.

This is a cosmetic panel covering the chassis from the fenders to the

radiator.

14. The tops of the fenders should be painted flat black to simulate

the anti-skid step material.

15. The center portion of the fender steps should be painted silver.

16. Headlights were single style. The lights are to be mounted to the

chassis, just behind the bumper. Besure the lights are up high enough

to clear the bumper.

17. The exhaust stack is mounted behind the right rear cab corner.

The 346 was a limited production truck.

Quite impressive to see.

The 346 was usually equipped with a smaller horsepower engine. The

Caterpillar engine from the AMT Ford Short Hauler or Snow Plow is an

excellant choice. The engine should be painted white.

If you build your 346 as a concrete mixer, be sure to allow the chassis

frame rail to extend in front of the radiator for the power take-off.

Standard equipment on the 346 included a single 50 gallon fuel tank, a

cabover style batterybox, 22.5 front rims, 22.5 wide float front tires.

22 in rears. Drivers seat, single exhaust stack, dry type air cleaner.

Donor Kit:

Any ERTL International, suggested is the 4270, or 4300 conventional.

The Paystar will do, but will require modifying the front suspension and

axle location.

Any chassis may be used, for example, the Diamond Reo kit's chassis is

ideal.

1. Soak the resin parts in white wall tire cleaner for 6 hours to

overnight to remove any mold release agents.

2. Wash the parts in warm soapy water. Let dry.

3. Test fit all parts.

4. Sand any belmishes or rough spots.

5. Fill any holes of voids in the resin.

6. Grind/remove the resin from the inside of the cab around the

windshield top and side and rear windows. This will allow the cab glass

to sit flat.

7. If the roof of the cab has a slight wavyness, sand this smooth.

8. Fabricate a center windshield post.

9. It is suggested that the door window posts be removed and replaced

with thinner styrene posts.

10. Prime with good quality primer. NOTE: Mask off the nameplates and

headlights before priming. This will ensure that the detail doesn't get

obiterated by the layers of primer and paint.

11. Paint with paint of choice.

12. Cut "glass" to fit the windows. The windshield glass should sit on

the flat inner edge.

13. Install a steering column and wheel to the instrument panel. The

instrument panel is installed AFTER the glass is installed. The panel

will be mounded to the firewall. It should be slightly visable abover

the lower edge of the windshield.

14. Install the seat bases, and other interior accesories (from the

donor kit, shifter, floor peddles). Be sure that the drivers seat is

lined up with the steering wheel.

15. The interior floor should sit inside the cab. There are small

mounting tabs. The resin floor needs to have a slight amount shaved off

to allow the floor to sit properly. If you don't do this, the seat will

be too far away from the steering wheel.

16. Fabricate door handles. Mount them approximately .25 inch down

from the bottom edge of the door windows.

17. Depending on what donor kit you use, round or square tanks can be

used.

18. Once painted, cover the nameplates and headlights in chrome foil.

Paint the inner nameplate with flat black. Wipe off black over the

lettering.

19. The cab will sit slightly above the chassis. Depending on what

size tires/wheels you choose for your truck. The front of the cab/hood

sits slightly above the bumper.

20. There are tiny holes in the cab for mounting locations for fender

mounted turn signals and roof top cab lights. Typical on the Emeryville

would be the cab lights found in the AMT/Ertl Ford Short Hauler/snow

plow kit.

21. Mirrors from the Paystar or 4300 kit will fit, but the lower mount

needs to be cut back so that the mirror mounts straight on the door. The

mirror is mounted in line with the door window post.

22. The exhaust stack is mounted either on the frame, or on the back of

the cab. The muffler itself extendes about .5 inch below the lower edge

of the cab.

The International "Transtar 400," also known as the Emeryville DCF-405

was available from the early 1960's until the early 1970's. The

Transtar 4270 replaced this truck.

Many variations were offered. Longer hood, set-back axle, construction.

This kit represents a mid-60's version commonly used by large fleets.

If you wish for an older version, grind off the hood nameplate and small

square vent.

Quad headlights were common on older versions.

379 Extended hood conversion for the Italeri 378 kit#746.

1.Soak the resin parts overnight in whitewall tire cleaner  overnight to remove any mold release agents.

2.Wash the parts in warm soapy water and let dry.

3.Remove any flashing or casting residue.

4.Fill any holes or voids with modeling putty.

5.Sand putty and any edges that appear rough.

6.Test fit the hood to the cab and make any adjustments.

7. Test fit the grill to the hood and make any adjustments.

8. Test fit the fenders to the hood and make any adjustments.

When all the sanding and filing is done continue to the next steps.

If you want the fenders to be a different color as the hood you can now paint the hood and fenders before the next steps.

9.. Measuring about 2 mm back from the front of the hood to the flat spot on the front (where the hinges mount)of the fender,mount the fenders with epoxy or super glue,making sure the straight bottom edge is even with the bottom of the hood.

10.Mount the hood extensions to the hood right behind the fender with the wider part of the top toward the front. 

11.Paint the hood, fenders and hood skirts with your favorite primer.

12.Sand the primer in any spots that look rough.

13.Paint the hood in you favorite color.

14. The grill can be chromed ,Allcladed,Bare metal foiled or painted silver to your liking

15.Mount the grill to the hood.

16.Remove the mounting tab on  the headlights and mount to the grill.

follow the kit directions for mounting the grill mesh and hinges.

The frame can be built as you wish as far a wheelbase.

Follow these steps when building the frame.

1.Part numbers 12A, 13A and 3A need to be moved back approx.8mm. They also need to be lowered some.

I advise these parts be mounted at the time the cab is to be mounted and moved accordingly.

The 378 has a higher cab mounting then the 379 and it will be easier to mount the cab after the hood is attached.

The radiator needs to be shortened about 3mm.

The best way I found to do this is to mount the hood with its hinges(DO NOT GLUE YET)to the frame, then trim off the bottom of the radiator, set it in place and close the hood.The top of the hood should have no slope to it.

The other modifications are as follows;

1. Move the battery boxes back accordingly.

2.Extend the exhaust accordingly.

3.Extend the air intake,part#148B,147B accordingly

The fuel tanks can be mounted in the kit locations.

The Peterbilt 362 debuted in late 1980 as the replacement for the long running 352 cabover. The 362 featured an all new cab, interior and creature comforts. Sitting more than 5 inches taller than a 352, it boasted more legroom, and storage.

The 362 is available as a single axle or tandem axle tractor, with many variations made over the years. 362 had been built as a tandem-steer heavy hauler to right-hand-drive versions for export,

The 362 is still a current offering from Peterbilt Motors.

This conversion kit was designed as a basic starting point for 362-110" big bunk cabover. You will need a donor kit of your choice. The AMT Peterbilt 359 will work fine, as would the Revell Peterbilt 359, or for a late-model 362, use the Italeri 378 kit.

The 362 will NOT work on a 352 frame, as the 362 uses longer conventional front springs.

You will have to modify whichever kit you choose for the cab mounts. The 362's rear cab mounts extend out from the frame. The front hinges will have to be fabricated.

AMT 359 Kit:

Do not install the cab mount cross member amd cowl supports. Move the steering gear box to the front spring hanger. Eliminate the battery box.

Revell 359:

Eliminate the cab mount crossmember, and eliminate the cowl supports.

Move the steering gearbox to the front spring hanger.

Do not install the battery and tool boxes.

Italeri 378

Do not install the cab mount crossmember, discard the cowl supports. Move the steering gearbox to the front spring hanger. Do not install the battery and toolboxes. The Italeri 378 is 1/24th scale, the 362 cab is 1/25th. You will need to modify the width(track) of the axles so that the wheels/tires will site inside the fenderwells. The engine may have to be lowered slightly to allow for the clearance, as the engine is 1/24th scale.

ALL modesl:

Exhaust mufflers can either be single or dual, mounted to the cab ("breaking exhaust") or to te chassis (most common). Tubular angled supports were used so that the stacks sat towards the outer corners. Inboard (close to the center) was available also. Stacks from any of the Peterbilt kits will work. You will have to fabricate the tubing/piping from th engine to the mufflers.

362 had several air cleaner options. Mounted behind the engine, with a frontal air intake (no behind the cab snorkle), a right-side frame mounted canister with a behind the cab snorkle (right), under the cab with a left-mount snorkle, dual center mounted behind the cab snorkles. You will have to fabricate the piping/tubing from the engine to the air cleaner canister, and from the canister to the intake.

Battery box was mounted on the left, behind the left wheel. Optional was a across the frame rail, behind the engine location.

You will need the decal sheet from an Italeri 378 for the instrumental panel (modify to fit), or make your own guages and dials. Low back seats (AMT 359 type) were standard, highback seats were optional (like the Revell and Italeri seats). The gearshift is fixed to the floor, there is no opening in the floor of the interior. The steering column from any Peterbilt kit will work. Stock 362's had the white 3 spoke wheel from the AMT kit. Optional was the 4 spoke from the Revell 359, and later the 2 spoke from the Italeri kits.

You will have to fabricate the inside of the step pockets. The pockets have a semi-circle shape to them with the top and bottom flat. (similar to the AMT 352 kit's part, only larger).

362 had optional rear cab fairings, roof mounted large air deflectiors or smaller factory installed Varashield air deflectors.

The 362 had 2 options for the windshield.

All had windshield posts at the outer corners (in line with the panel seam). 3 wipers, and a 1-piece flat windshield, with the 2 corner sections was standard. Optional was a 2 piece center windshield, with 2 wipers. If you choose the 2 piece windshield, the center post should be

straight, with no curves. Wipers are black.

Interior colors: Top of dash matt black.

Padding in early years (1980-1987) dark brown/tan, black, dark red, grey.

(1987-present) grey, black, red (same as a 379).

Engine colors: Early years (1980-83) the engine would be white, no matter what brand. Later years the engine would be engine manufacturers color.

Misc item that need fabricating:

Grab Handles. 362 had as standard long curved grab handles. The handles run from the botto of the doors, up to the top, curving aound the top and ending just behind the visor (leave room for a spotlight). Another grab handle is mounted on the cab, from the drip rail down to just above the luggage door. Another grab handle is located in line with this handle, but mounted to the luggage door.

Turn signals are square (use the ones from the AMT amber lense tree). They are mounted at the small indentation in front of the step pocket.

The under headlight marker and turn signal lamps should be painted amber. The housing

is painted matt black, not body color.

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